LAKE CITY – Iowa has its own character.

Writer Darcy Doughtery Maulsby, of rural Lake City, is working to capture a bit of that distinctive flavor in a new book called “A Culinary History of Iowa.”

Currently in the process of researching the topic, she is pulling together interesting bits about the state’s food culture with plans for the resulting manuscript to be published this summer.

“It’s a hearty serving of stories with an extra helping of recipes and intriguing photos,” she said. “Iowa has a rich heritage of food, farming and culinary traditions.”

A farm girl herself, Maulsby learned to cook at the age of 12. As an adolescent involved in 4-H, she won awards for her culinary efforts at the Calhoun County Exposition. Then, as an adult, her interest in cooking was further fueled by winning blue ribbons at the Clay County Fair, as well as taking home top honors at the Iowa State Fair.

“I’ve always loved to cook,” she said, “and I heard all of these fascinating stories that go back to the connection of food and farming.”

It made her wonder.

“I couldn’t believe there was not already a book like this,” Maulsby said.

For instance, the uniquely Iowa combination of chili and cinnamon rolls served for hot lunch at school seems an odd pairing to people who didn’t grow up with the duo regularly served up on their lunch trays, she said. Suggesting dipping a piece of the frosted sweet roll into the warm, spicy bowl of chili can prompt a scrunched up nose and disbelief from someone beyond the state’s borders, but it tends to prompt a surge of childhood nostalgia for locals.

“When I was growing up in Lake City we had caramel rolls with chili,” Maulsby said. “And I was on a quest for that original recipe. I have never forgotten the taste of that caramel roll.”

How the two items came to be forever linked isn’t clear, she said. Her best guess is that it likely had to do with the subsidies the schools were getting at the time and the creativity of the school cooks; however, once that tasty combination was known, demand made it a tradition.

Jell-o and gelatin desserts are another unique presence on the Iowa menu.

“We have a strong affinity for all things Jell-O and whip cream,” Maulsby said. “And what we call a salad is not necessarily what others call salad.”

Often found at church suppers and family picnics, she said the side dishes so familiar to many combine a variety of fruits and nuts then suspend them in quivering mounds of gelatin that is either mixed or topped with whipped cream. Salads in other states lack that giggliness Iowans seem to favor.

Another piece of interesting Iowa heritage is the continued presence of meat lockers and the original products in which they specialize.

“I don’t think they exist anymore in other states,” Maulsby said, “and that fact that they thrive here is a link to our livestock industry.”

She plans to include information on items such as the Dobberstein, a meat much like a Polish sausage that was developed by Mike’s Meat Market in West Bend. The sausage was named in honor of the Rev. Paul Dobberstein who built the Grotto of the Redemption. The old Mike’ Meat Market building has since been remodeled and is part of The Villager gift shop and soda fountain, but Skoglund Meats and Locker continues the town’s tradition of custom processing and meats production.

She plans to visit and research for the book a few classic eateries and restaurants in the state, as well. While LeMars is known for its Blue Bunny ice cream, Maulsby said it also is home to Archie’s Waeside, a third-generation ran steakhouse known for its hand-cut, dry-aged steaks.

Ultimately, Maulsby said she wants her book to preserve a bit of interesting cultural history, but she also wants its readers to understand the historic and global impact the state has made.

“Iowa has a had a profound effect on feeding the world,” she said. “It’s a lot more than sweet corn, Maid Rites and chili and cinnamon rolls.”

Maulsby has covered agriculture and business for regional and national publications and corporations for 17 years, including writing regular profiles of Iowa cooks and their recipes that are featured in Farm News.

Copies of “A Culinary History of Iowa” will be available through Maulsby’s website, www.darcymaulsby.com, as well as via Amazon.com.

Publishing the book will be History Press of Charleston, South Carolina.

Ma’s Best Butter Cookies

1 stick butter (unsalted)

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Make sure the butter is at room temperature. Cream butter and brown sugar. Add egg and vanilla to the mixture. Mix well. In a separate bowl, combine flour, salt, baking soda and powdered ginger. Combine the wet and dry ingredients. Mix thoroughly.

Put the two tablespoons of granulated sugar in a small bowl. Scoop balls of dough, and gently roll dough in the sugar, coating the top of each cookie generously. Place the dough balls on an ungreased baking sheet, with cookies about 1 1/2 inches apart. Gently press a fork into the top of each cookie to make a simple design. Bake for 12 minutes or until cookies are lightly browned. Remove from oven. Transfer cookies from baking sheet to cooling rack. Yields two dozen cookies.